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My Experience of Black Saturday

Posted by David Laity on
My Experience of Black Saturday

For a year my partner and I had been renting a tiny cottage perched high above the township of Chum Creek. Located between Kinglake and Marysville it would end up facing the wrath of three different fire fronts sweeping through one after the other.

The house was located deep in the forest with the only way to get to it along a steep driveway made up of a series of tight switchbacks weaving up a heavily treed slope. It was so isolated that it was completely off the grid. When I first saw it I was attracted to its privacy, but I remember thinking that no-one could survive a bushfire if one ever came through.

It a was beautiful spot with sweeping views out through the canopies towards the bay. We planted fruit trees and built gardens that our chickens were free to roam through. All in all, life was pretty idylic and we were sad when the landlord told us they were planning on moving back.

We found a new home higher up the mountain. It was in the tiny hamlet of Toolangi, a quaint township sitting near the top of Mount St Leonard. Towering high above Healesville and surrounded by state forests and soaring mountain ashes, it is a stunning place worthy of the poetry of C J Dennis who had once called it home. We signed a lease and were due to move into our new house on the Monday after Black Saturday.

The weather forecast for the Saturday had been grim - high forty-degree temperatures and massive winds. Growing up in the city, I didn’t fully comprehend what that meant, but my partner who was one of the first women to join the Marysville CFA (Country Fire Association) did, and so Saturday morning we took her dog up the mountain to our new house before heading into Melbourne in separate cars for respective hens and bucks parties. Our plan was to stay in Melbourne for the night and there is no doubt in my mind that those parties saved our lives.

Growing up in Queensland, I thought I knew hot, but this Saturday was different. The air was bone dry, with a searing heat that made it difficult to breathe. The wind was ferocious too, with gusts above 100km an hour that could blow you off your feet. It was unlike anything I had experienced before and the first of many experiences that I never want to repeat.

At around 4pm that afternoon, I received a call from my partner’s sister telling me that our house was burning down. She lived with her husband and kids on a hill overlooking Healesville.

They had a good vantage over the valley and hills beyond and it would become our base over the coming weeks as we fought successive fires that threatened her home.

As soon as I hung up the phone, I called my partner who was already on her way back. We agreed to meet in Healesville and work out what to do from there. Our main concern was Daisy, the dog.

With nowhere to go, we numbly watched the hills burning from the Healesville golf course. We understood that our house was gone and we all believed it was only a matter of time before my partner’s sister’s house burnt as well. For hours we watched the blue and red flashing lights of the fire trucks darting amongst the flames before settling down to a fitful sleep on the floor of an office in town.

There were two ways up the mountain and early the next morning we chanced our arm at the first blockade. We were turned back and so we tried the second blockade at the other end of town. It too was blocked.

Sick with worry about Daisy and with nothing else to do, I went to my Sunday shift at the local bottle shop. I don’t remember much about that day except for all of the people who came out from the pub to look at the guy who’s house had burnt down. I kept getting asked why I had come to work but I didn’t know how to answer them. The simple fact was that I really liked my boss and I didn’t want to let him down.

That night after work we took another look at the roadblocks. The fire had moved down the mountain and was now visible through the trees. Even if the roadblock was unmanned it was clear that it was far too dangerous to attempt the roads at night. Thankfully, my partner’s sister’s house had been saved by the fire crews and so we camped there for another restless night spent patrolling the forest for spot fires.

The next morning we set out again to break the police lines and rescue our dog. News was beginning to trickle in about the devastation up in the hills and we were becoming fearful of what we would find. Miraculously, we caught the second blockade at a change of guard, and just like that, we slipped on through.

The drive up the mountain was terrifying. Both sides of the winding road were on fire with little space to turn if we found a tree blocking our way. It was without a doubt the stupidest thing I have ever done.

Thinking that I could single-handedly take on the fire is something that still haunts me. I joined the CFA soon after Black Saturday and have fought quite a few campaigns since. However it isn’t fire that unsettles me, it's turning up to defend a house and finding a hysterical man at the gate who has made the choice to stay and fight. Inside the house is his family and by the time we have arrived it has dawned on him that there is nothing he can do to save them when the fire hits. It is the look in these men's eyes that turns my guts.

I remember passing fire trucks halfway up the mountain. They were on either side of the road actively fighting the fire. They screamed at us to turn back and rightly so.

I cannot explain the relief I felt when we finally reached the top and entered Toolangi. I knew it was a fool’s mission before we embarked on it, but I also knew my partner was going to go up that mountain with or without me.

We headed straight to our new house, hoping it was still there. And it was. The block the house was on was large and flat and had been planted out many years before with European plants. They were now well established trees; massive firs, elms and oaks, and the lawn was manicured to within an inch of its life.

It was a stunning botanic garden and as it turns out, very hard to set alight. The fire had leapt over the property destroying everything around it, but it had stopped at the edge of the manicured lawn (I expect with the help of some fire crews).

What was left was a green oasis in a sea of charcoal which would over the coming months play host to every tiger snake within kilometres of us.

We found our new landlords putting out a fire in the back wood shed. They were as surprised to see us as we were them, and we asked if they had seen a dog. They hadn’t, but then as if on cue, Daisy emerged from under a bush. She had been there for two days watching the fire crews come and go. It must have been terrifying for her.

We helped put out the shed fire and with nowhere else to go, we went back to our new landlord’s house.

And it was there that we met first met the fire.

A CFA strike team had stationed itself up on the mountain. Made up of five trucks, they chose our new landlord’s home as their base. It was central to the town, surrounded by paddocks and there was a massive 120,000 litre concrete water tank next to their house. With big red fire trucks parked next to us it felt like the safest place we could be.

The fire from Marysville had begun to make it's way towards us and the fire that had burnt our house down two day earlier was coming up the other side of mountain. The fire that had struck Kinglake and leapt over our new home was still burning fiercely at the other end of town. We were surrounded by three fire fronts and it wasn’t long before embers began to fall. They were huge, long sticks dropping out of the sky and starting little fires in the paddocks around us.

The sky was ablaze as the fire raced up the mountain side and we were starting to feel its heat.

We watched as the strike team leader drove his four wheel drive straight through a wire fence at the end of the paddock. His vehicle scattered the cows as he went to check on the progress of the impending fire front.

Up until this point I had been taking all of my cues off my partner. An experienced firefighter, she had been staying calm, but now I could see her getting edgy. The crew in the fire truck next to us were getting nervous too.

We could feel the heat intensify as the fire drew near and the thick black smoke began to roll in.

For a moment we were distracted as two farmers raced into the paddock, making a beeline for the broken fence. I had built fences in a previous life and I watched in awe as these two men repaired their broken fence with a speed that made no sense to me. It was an Olympic effort and while I realise this moment may sound insignificant in light of the unfolding events, it will stand out as one of the most incredible things I witnessed over the following three weeks. With an enormous fire bearing down on them, these two farmers made sure their cows were safe before racing off to protect their homes.

By now the air was thick with smoke and the sky had become black. The noise and the heat from the fire was incredible. Fuelled by the gasses coming off the trees, the flames seemed to reach kilometres into the sky. It didn’t seem possible and was something I couldn’t have dreamt of in my wildest nightmares.

The men in the fire truck began to panic. All professionalism went out the window as they yelled their maydays in to base. I remember my partner turning to me and telling me that she didn’t think we were going to get through this. My heart sank. We told each other that we loved each other, said our goodbyes and then we waited for the end.

Suddenly, above the noise and chaos came the thump of the chopper blades. It was and still is the most wonderful noise I have ever heard, and I still get chills when I watch the big birds fly in over us on the fireground. Elvis was this ones’ name. It dumped its load of water and then raced off. Over the next fifteen minutes it made two more passes and then as luck would have it, the wind direction changed, sweeping the fire westward as it neared the top of the mountain. The Marysville fire behind us and the Kinglake fire also turned west and miraculously, Toolangi was saved.

We spent the night camped out in our landlord’s house and the following morning were told we could join a police escort out. The road going down to Yarra Glen, referred to as 'the slide' by the locals, had been partially cleared and we were told we could leave in a convoy to go and get supplies. The convoy would then return two hours later. Once back, those that wanted to leave again in a third and final convoy, could.

We decided to go and fill up our car with supplies and then come back to drop those supplies at the Toolangi hall where an emergency centre was being set up. After dropping the supplies we would leave again in the final convoy to help my partner’s sister defend her home.

The drive out was ugly. Burnt cars littered the road, metal wrecks twisted from the intense heat. That little stretch of highway is referred to as ‘the slide’ by locals. Heading up to Kinglake, it is a steep winding road with a cliff face on one side and a steep drop on the other.

The fire had come through so intensely that the trees were bent as if being blown by the wind and the leaves were snap dried, burnt to a char but still clinging to the ends of the branches.

The forest was alight and would be for weeks to come. It was a scene of total devastation and for as far as the eye could see, it looked like a bomb site.

That drive down to Yarra Glen holds one of my sadest memories from this time. Far down below us at the very bottom of the gully was what looked like a bright blue MG convertible. It was inconceivable as to how it could have gotten there and against the blackenend backdrop it looked new and untouched by flames. It didn't make any sense to me and I think about the people who might have been in that car often.

We arrived at the supermarket, made our purchases and began to fill our car. Beside the supermarket another emergency centre was being set up and we grabbed what we could from there as well. With the car full, we headed back up the mountain, dropped our supplies at the hall and then made our way back out.

For the next three weeks we fought the fire. It was relentless work broken up by evacuations into Healesville when it all became too dangerous to stay. Often a CFA truck would come and join us as we worked together to protect the houses in the street.

Our time was spent patrolling the bushland and digging rakho trails – metre wide trenches designed to remove combustible material from the fire’s path. In theory these clearings would be wide enough to slow a fires advance, giving you time to attack the flames.

In reality though, the fire had gone underground, into the roots, and any dry kindling placed onto the trails would begin to smoulder and eventually catch alight. It was back breaking and most often defeating work.

One night a fire truck turned up to help us defend one of the neighbour’s homes. The men in the truck were seasoned volunteers and between them there would have been over one hundred years of firefighting experience. I remember overhearing them talking amongst themselves with a combination of childish excitement and awe. They had watched the Marysville fire descend upon Maroondah Dam, a large expanse of water just outside of Healesville. As it burst from the forest it literally ignited the air above the water. Incredulous, they watched a fireball race across the water and explode into the trees on the other side. The fire had travelled across nearly two hundred meters of water without missing a beat.

Many other word of mouth stories began to emerge. I remember running into a farmer who had sadly lost his sheep but his goats were still alive. He had survived by jumping into his dam and from there he watched a ten foot high flames race across his paddocks. The grass was short and so it didn’t burn for long but it was enough to set his sheep alight. The goats survived by getting down on the ground as low as they could with legs splayed out, and while they were singed, the fire passed over the top of them. He was devastated by the loss of his sheep and in awe at how clever his goats were.

The fire had taken most townships by surprise and Kinglake was no different. By the time people knew the fire was coming, it was already there. Many people chose to stay in their houses while many others ran. Up until then the accepted convention was to bunker down in your house. This made sense because while a fire front can easily reach a thousand degrees, it moves on quickly, leaving little to burn in its wake. Hiding in your house for the fifteen minutes it takes to become fully engulfed buys the time you need for outside to cool down to a survivable temperature. Due to the enormity of the Black Saturday fires, the outside temperature remained at a thousand degrees for up to an hour after the front had passed by. There was simply nowhere safe to run to from a burning house.

I was told another story of survival that has stuck with me. It occurred on the same stretch of highway we had travelled down to get supplies. A resident of Kinglake was about to flee in his mustang when he thought he should check in on his neighbour, a single woman with a couple of kids. They were still home and as he rushed them to his car the kids became concerned about the family pets. The man ran back inside their house and grabbing both the cat and the dog, piled them all into the car and took off.

The drive out was extremely dangerous. Visibility was almost zero and the road was already becoming blocked with cars that had failed to make it out. Terrible accidents were claiming lives before the main fire front had even hit.

The mustang raced down ‘the slide’, but no matter how fast it went the fire front kept up, keeping the mustang in a perpetual fire storm. The car couldn’t last much longer. Thinking quickly, the man slammed on the brakes and spun the car around to face the wall of flames coming down the hill. Slamming down on his accelerator the car took off, back the way it had come.

I can’t imagine how terrifying this must have been, driving headlong into a fire the likes of which no-one in living memory had ever seen before. The man estimated that they were travelling at well over one hundred kilometres an hour when they smashed into the main blaze, with a familiarity of the road only a local could have had keeping them on track. The car launched itself out of the other side of the front and with melted tyres and peeling paint they made it to safety in Alexandria on the other side of the range.

For three weeks we prayed for rain as we continued to fight the fire. It was exhausting work. The adrenalin that kept us going, never stopped building and had begun to take a terrible toll on our bodies. It would be many months before any of us could begin to relax and many years before the mental scars began to heal.

The rain eventually came and four weeks after the fires had begun we were allowed to head on back up the mountain and move into our new home in Toolangi. We were grateful to be alive and felt extremely lucky to have somewhere safe to live.

Sadly, our relationship didn't survive the ordeal and after a few years living in a little warehouse in Coldstream at the entrance to the Yarra Valley, I eventually moved to the Macedon Ranges on the other side of Melbourne.

Visits back to the Yarra Valley have been very challenging for me in the past and in light of the recent anniversary of the fires, I decided to take a drive through memory lane. I traced our journey up the mountain and into Toolangi, and for the first time since the fires it felt good.

I am grateful to that little township and the wonderful people there who took us in. I am grateful to all of the brave volunteer firefighters and to all the men and women who stepped up to help in any way they could. And I'm grateful for that wonderful home where I got to start rebuilding my life.. and where the idea of Goodwill Wine was formed.

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17 comments

  • Kim on

    Hi David. Good on you for sharing your experience. I have no doubt the fires from Feb 2009 will be a significant point in your life for the rest of your days. As an 11yo child, I survived the Ash Wednesday bushfires in 1983 and my family also lost our home and all of our belongings. I’m always relieved when the temperature is much cooler on the anniversary, as I’m sure you were earlier this week. Good on you for starting up Goodwill Wines – a positive to originate from such a devastating time. Kim

  • Denise Dolan on

    I had heard your story before but never with this much detail. The hairs in my arms were standing up. You have been amazing turning your own experience into helping others – thank you


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